Restaurants in Istanbul
Beyoglu buzzes with eateries from trendy rooftop restaurants, such as 360Istanbul and Leb-i Derya Richmond, to a fresh fish meyhane (taverns) on Nevizade Sokak. In Old Istanbul, traditional kebab dinners are the order of the day, including Hamdi Restaurant in Eminönü and Sultanahmet Koftecisi in Sultanahmet. In Asian Istanbul, Kadiköy has the best selection. Most restaurants stay open till midnight every night. Service is not usually added, so add at least 10%.
Balikci Sabahattin
Traditional house
Located in a quiet part of Sultanahmet, Balikci Sabahattin is a delightful
restaurant in a 1920s house. Locals come from all over Istanbul for its
consistently good-quality seafood dishes. The dark-wood floor and kilims
(rugs) make it cosy on chilly evenings, but there's also a quiet courtyard
for summer dining. Reservations are strongly recommended.
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Opening Hours
Daily 12pm-1am
Address
1, Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sokak, Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 458 1824
Kordon Restaurant
Waterfront business lunches
Located in the peaceful village of Cengelkoy, Kordon Restaurant is an elegant
restaurant at boutique hotel Sumahan on the Water with a large terrace by
the Bosphorus. Try fresh fish dishes such as shellfish with soy sauce,
shrimp casserole and succulent grilled bonito. This is a lunch-time
favourite with local businessmen and it also gets busy during summer
weekends, so reservations are recommended.
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Opening Hours
Daily from 12pm; last orders 9.30pm
Address
51, Kuleli Caddesi, Çengelköy, Istanbul 34684
Telephone
+90 (0) 216 321 0473
Tugra
Palatial surroundings
Tugra is located inside the Ciragan Palace Kempinski, a former Sultan's
palace-turned-hotel near Besiktas. In 2007, the restaurant was given a
contemporary makeover but the menu remains a twist on Ottoman cuisine. Try
dishes like lamb kulbasti (grilled with herbs) and kabuni rice dessert. Its
terrace with river views make this a popular location. Smart dress and
reservations recommended.
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Opening Hours
Thu-Sun 7pm-11pm
Address
32, Ciragan Caddesi, Besiktas, Istanbul 34349
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 259 0394
Mikla
Poolside terrace
Mikla is a romantic restaurant on the rooftop terrace of Tepebasi's Marmara
Pera Hotel. Diners need to book ahead for the table with the best view and
dressing up is the norm. Dishes are a Mediterranean-Istanbul-Scandinavian
fusion, including smoked lamb loin with walnut pesto and anis crème brulée
with yoghurt sorbet. Afterwards, lounge on cushions by the pool sipping
cocktails.
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Opening Hours
Mon-Fri 12pm-3.30pm; Mon-Sat 6.30pm-11.30pm
Address
Marmara Pera Hotel, 167 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi, Istanbul 34430
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 293 5656
360Istanbul
Stylish top-floor dining
Beyoglu's 360Istanbul makes the most of its top-floor uninterrupted panorama
and attracts a mixture of high-society, casual and trendy diners. The menu
varies from platters to share, A La Turka pizza, sushi, crispy sole fillet
and Thai. It turns into a stylish late-night club at the weekend with
cocktails, beautiful people and DJs.
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Opening Hours
Sun-Thu 12pm-3am; Fri & Sat 12pm-4am
Address
8/F Misir Apartment, 163 Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu, Istanbul 80600
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 251 1042
Transport
Look out for the small sign for Misir Apartment. Climb the stairs or wait for the tiny lift to the top.
Website
Ara Café
Photographer's Café
Owned by Istanbul photographer Ara Guler, the popular Ara Café in Galatasaray
is lively and friendly. Locals love the walls covered with his amazing
black-and-white prints, the 1920s stained-glass windows and the courtyard.
The menu includes dishes such as walnut and cheese ravioli, crisp
ciger borek (deep-fried cheese pastries) and steaks.
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Opening Hours
Sun-Thu 8am-12am; Fri & Sat 8am-1am
Address
8A, Tosbag Sokak, Istiklal Caddesi, Galatasaray, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 245 4104
Transport
Bus to Taksim
Hamdi Restaurant
Harbourside kebabs
Many Istanbul establishments boast wonderful views, and Hamdi Restaurant has
the best over busy Eminönü harbour and Golden Horn. It serves a range of
traditional kebabs like lamb beyti (ground meat wrap) and non meat-eaters
can opt for simple grilled fish and meze (small dishes). Save room for
Turkish coffee and baklava, baked downstairs. Diners should make a
reservation for a terrace table.
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Opening Hours
Daily 12pm-12.45am
Address
17, Kalcin Sokak, Tahmis Caddesi, Eminönü, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 528 0390
Leb-i Derya
Riverfront Sunday brunch
Beyoglu restaurant Leb-i Derya Richmond offers Ottoman dishes with a twist,
such as 40-spice beef fillet or lime and ginger chicken. There are views
across the Bosphorus and in the summer the roof retracts. Inside the sleek,
white restaurant, locals love the Sunday brunch and mojitos, and most nights
there's a DJ playing soft jazz.
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Opening Hours
Mon-Thu 11am-2am; Fri 11am-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am
Address
6/F, Richmond Hotel, 227 Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu, Istanbul 80670
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 243 4375
The House Cafe
Waterfront eating
The House Cafe in Ortakoy is a comfortably casual restaurant that doubles as
an after-hours bar. There's a large terrace with a Bosphorus riverfront
location and wooden-floored interior. The huge European menu includes
breakfast of eggs Benedict, lunch of sea bass bruschetta, and unusual pizzas
like pear, roquefort and walnut. Locals love it for an after-work
sundowner.
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Opening Hours
Mon-Thu 9am-1am (kitchen closes 11pm); Fri & Sat 8am-2am (kitchen closes 11.30pm); Sun 8am-12am (kitchen closes 10.30pm)
Address
1, Salhane Sokak, Yildiz Mahallesi, Ortakoy, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 227 2639
Ya&Re'n
Lively fish restaurant
Ya&Re'n is a popular Beyoglu meyhane (tavern) specialising in
fish. Start with mezeler (cold appetizers) such as cacik
(yoghurt and garlic) or esme (spicy pepper dip), then move on to the
fresh fish of the day, usually simply grilled. Wash down with raki
(aniseed spirit) and enjoy the alfresco tables on the lively street,
regularly buzzing with folk music.
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Opening Hours
Daily 12pm-1am; winter closed Sun
Address
35, Asmalimescit Mahallesi, Beyoglu, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 245 4578
Transport
Bus to Tarlibasi Çaddesi
Zencefil
Healthy and serene vegetarian
Zencefil is generally known as a vegetarian restaurant, but chicken and
seasonal fish dishes sneak their way onto the menu. Most of the dishes are
vegetarian though, such as thick bean soup, huge salads and pies. Located in
Beyoglu, its fresh green decor and courtyard make it a popular choice for
afternoon coffee and cheesecake.
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Opening Hours
Mon-Sat 9am-12am
Address
8, Kurabiye Sokak, Beyoglu, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 243 8234
Transport
Bus to Taksim Square
Sultanahmet Koftecisi
Locals' favourite kebabs
Sultanahmet Koftecisi is the best of Divan Yolu's budget eateries and a
favourite with locals. It's also a good place for a quick lunch,
particularly for meat-eaters. It specialises in kebabs, especially its kofte
(succulent minced lamb), but vegetarians have a limited choice. Save room
for the wonderful asure, a cold pudding with dried fruit, nuts and
beans.
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Opening Hours
Daily 10am-11.30pm
Address
12, Divanyolu Çaddesi, Sultanahmet, Istanbul 34122
Telephone
+90 (0) 212520 05 66
Daruzziyafe
Restored soup kitchen
Located in the grounds of Suleymaniye Mosque, Daruzziyafe is on the site of
the former soup kitchen. The food is more varied these days, with a
selection of lunchtime starters, such as mercimek (lentil soup),
borek (pastries) and zeytinyagli bamya (olive oil beans). If the
weather is good, stick to the garden.
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Opening Hours
Daily 12pm-11pm
Address
6, Sifahane Caddesi, Suleymaniye, Istanbul 34430
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 511 8414
Hala
Homely traditional dishes
Hala in Beyoglu serves gozleme (traditional pancakes) stuffed with cheese,
potato or spinach, or manti (tiny Turkish ravioli). There are also chicken
dishes, plus a lovely hingal, a potato-stuffed pasta. The food is fresh
(women make pancakes on the premises), as well as being homely, good value
and filling.
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Opening Hours
Daily 10am-1am
Address
26, Çukurlu Çesme Sokak, off Büyük Parmakkapi Sokak, Istanbul Beyoglu
Telephone
+90 (0) 212 293 7531
Transport
Bus to Taksim
Çiya
Kebabs galore
There are dozens of kebab restaurants in Istanbul, but Çiya Kadikoy stands
out for the sheer choice. The menu includes all Turkish varieties of kebab,
including lamb with pine nuts, fresh coriander and pomegranate seeds. Even
vegetarians are catered for with spicy vegetable patties skewered and
grilled, and a selection of huge salads.
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Opening Hours
Daily 12pm-10pm
Address
44, Guneslibahce Sokak, Caferaga Mahellesi, Kadiköy, Istanbul
Telephone
+90 (0) 216 336 3013



