Muni

The San Francisco Municipal Railway, or 'Muni', has both trams (running above and below ground) and buses – between them they cover just about anywhere in the city you'll want or need to go. Market Street lines can get pretty crowded at rush hour. You'll need exact change, and always ask for a 'transfer' (paper receipt) – it lets you change to another tram or bus for free for a few hours and it's your proof of purchase. The fare is the same for a tram or bus.

Foot

Walking is a great way to see San Francisco, and you can cover large areas of this compact city in a day. Hills do get in the way, but depending on your ability and inclination, you can usually go around them or scale them intrepidly. From the summit of one of the city's many hills, you'll get sweeping views of the Golden Gate and the cliffs of the Marin headlands to the north, while the Bay and the cities and hills beyond it lie to the east.

Ferry

The ferry provides an excellent vantage point on the city and the Bay – especially the Golden Gate, best at sunset. It's the only way to get to Alcatraz, and it's a fine way to get to other places such as Marin County and Oakland. Be mindful of timetables, as service might end earlier than you would expect and is less frequent than it could be.

Cable Car

San Francisco is renowned for its cable cars. From the arcane science of operating the grips and brakes to the rhythmic and jolly bell-ringing (there's an annual contest), riding a cable car is a quintessential San Francisco experience. Note that the fare is higher than on buses or trams and they don't take transfers (tickets) from other transport. Note also that cable cars are basically visitor attractions (the locals take trams or buses), so expect queues at the terminus of each line (in Fisherman's Wharf and Downtown) – or avoid them by boarding closer to the middle of the line.

BART

The Bay Area Rapid Transit system, better known as BART, only serves a thin slice of San Francisco (mainly Market Street and the Mission District), but it's essential for getting to key places outside the city such as the airport, and to cities in the East Bay such as Oakland and Berkeley. While BART shares stations with Muni trams along Market Street, it is a separate system requiring its own fare.

Taxi

San Francisco is slightly infamous for its taxis – or lack thereof. On a busy day such as Valentine's Day (14 Feb) they can be precious few and far between, and likewise when the bars close at 2am be prepared to wait a while. Cabs are most plentiful around hotels, and many restaurants will call one for you.

Car

Although hiring a car is the best option for touring the state of California, driving in San Francisco can be something of a challenge, due to stringent parking regulations and very steep hills. When driving in the city, practise hill starts and 'curb' the wheels of your car when parking on a steep incline.